8 pin blanking plug

[IanS]

I've finally accepted that with the many iterations of my layout and shunting yards that DCC may be the route to go. I have a large number of locos so the plan is to convert a small number at a time as funds allow.

To this end I bought some 8 pin socket/harnesses that will allow an 8 pin decoder to be plugged in for DCC operation but also allow analogue operation until I have enough chips and locos converted to make the final shift.

I've looked online and can't find any 8 pin blanking plugs that will allow this. My thoughts were that a blanking plug from an 8 pin DCC ready loco should do the trick.

Does anyone have spare blanking plugs for 8 pin (or even 21 pin for when I do more complex locos)?

[Rog (RJ)]

I don't have any spare blanking plugs but they are available to buy if other members can't help.

Having said that, I see they are out of stock at most places for some reason.

[brian1951]

Ian, beware mixing DC and DCC on the same layout. A DCC fitted loco will still run on a DC layout but not DC on DCC layout. In the next few days im clearing out loads of stuff, i do have a box of decoders to go through.

[Brian]

Ian

I have an 8 pin one in front of me right now. P.M. your address and I'll send it to you.

[Steve M]

Another consideration when converting locos.

It may seem logical to fit a DCC socket to non DCC ready locos to allow a decoder to be plugged in later but you may find that there simply isn’t room for both to be fitted at the same time. It is simpler and easier to hard wire a decoder into the loco, missing out the plug and socket completely.

Decoders are available either as direct fit or with a harness already soldered to it. Snip off the wires at the plug end of the harness. For steam you will only need to identify four colours - red and black (to track pickups) orange and grey (the other way, to motor). And always use heatshrink to insulate any soldered connections.

Don’t be tempted to try and solder direct to the decoder as it’s very likely that it will blow.

Also, if the locos you are converting are older then beware of the split chassis design - they can be converted but they are tricky and worthy of separate debate should you have any you want to convert.

[Mr Bones]

If you still need them I might have a few. Would need to check how many later. PM me your address if you want them.

[IanS]

Thank you all for your comments and the offers.

To start with the plan is to convert larger locos such as HST's, Class 55 & 37's and others of similar size. Until I can get the wheel flanges sorted the older ones will stay DC.

I am aware of not mixing DC and DCC and don't plan to try. The wiring, when completed, will be suitable for DCC but used as DC until I feel I have enough locos converted which I know, for me, will be a long process. Once sufficient are converted then the DC will connected to the shunting layouts permanently, until then temporary connections for DC to main layout and to shunting layouts.

[IanS]

Thank you to those that donated blanking plates. They have already come in useful.

[Tricky Dicky]

I am not familiar with 8-pin blanking plugs only with 6 pin but I cannot imagine that they are something vastly different in that all the plug does is connect two sets of pins together. Surely something knocked up in vero board would do the trick?

Richard

[IanS]

It would. I've now found an online source.

Heljan 8-pin blanking plugs from howesmodels. £10 or so for 10 (plus postage). https://howesmodels.co.uk/product/helja ... king-plug/