Model Railway Forum

I have a small model boat that needs a home so a little bump out needed for the estuary.
Poured the resin and sure enough, it's leaking. More hot glue, gaffer tape and crossed fingers.

Those damned fingers of mine made this quite a painful project, but at least I got this far. I have a crew on order to complete the scene and then I can fix the cabin in place properly (don't look at the gap!)

Very impressive - great job.

Nice job and splendid looking lifeboat…….. although perhaps a bit of overkill for the size of estuary - just as well you didn’t have a model of the QE2 kicking around - LOL

Hound Dog wrote: ↑Tue Jul 08, 2025 7:30 pm Nice job and splendid looking lifeboat…….. although perhaps a bit of overkill for the size of estuary - just as well you didn’t have a model of the QE2 kicking around - LOL

Ideally it should have been a RIB, but 'Rule 1' can apply to boats as well.
Don't look in the goods yard, there's a '32 Ford street rod parked in there.

It seems my attempts to cure the knocking noise from the rear axle of my old Triumph Spitfire have failed. Although I've replaced all the UJs, wheel and diff bearings it still sounds like a severely unbalanced washing machine on fast spin.
The diff will need to be rebuilt or replaced. The latter is ferociously expensive and the former is something I've not done before.
Deep joy.

Sounds like you need a Haynes manual

Have you seen a decent Haynes manual recently? Sadly they are a poor shadow of their former selves. Fortunately I have a copy of an original Triumph manual published during the British Leyland years (oh well, you can't have everything). It's very comprehensive.
I've already removed the rear leaf spring and the exhausts and I might have time to disconnect the UJ flanges and propshaft tomorrow morning. Then there are only three bolts left.
Assuming I can get it on the bench I'll strip it and see what spares I need to start off with. I think the side to side position of the crown wheel is fairly straightforward (with the right shims!!) but the preload and end float of the pinion looks to be a world of pain.

Steve M wrote: ↑Tue Jul 08, 2025 10:56 am Those damned fingers of mine made this quite a painful project, but at least I got this far. I have a crew on order to complete the scene and then I can fix the cabin in place properly (don't look at the gap!)

Looks good.

Steve M wrote: ↑Wed Jul 09, 2025 4:29 pm Have you seen a decent Haynes manual recently? Sadly they are a poor shadow of their former selves. Fortunately I have a copy of an original Triumph manual published during the British Leyland years (oh well, you can't have everything). It's very comprehensive.
I've already removed the rear leaf spring and the exhausts and I might have time to disconnect the UJ flanges and propshaft tomorrow morning. Then there are only three bolts left.
Assuming I can get it on the bench I'll strip it and see what spares I need to start off with. I think the side to side position of the crown wheel is fairly straightforward (with the right shims!!) but the preload and end float of the pinion looks to be a world of pain.

I have been after a Heynes Manual for my car ever since I had it three years ago with no joy because when I ask they all say I have to pay to download one online. I don't do online payments and even if I could download it I could not print one to turn it into a book. So I have to estimate torque settings etc as that is why I wanted the manual. Shame Heynes no longer publish proper books, as I would have bought one. Mind you, going back to the 1970' and early '80's there were other brands of workshop manual which were far easier to follow where one didn't need to constantly turn and look for pages! Heynes manuals never were easy to follow, but at least until a few years ago they were there. Sad they no longer make them.