Laying the track on a grass mat

[Montfort]

Thanks. The Gaugemaster underlay looks better than the Javis ballast roll.

[Chops]

Thanks for all your replies gentlemen. There will be no ballasting at all because I hate that.

I'd rather have teeth pulled than ballast, myself. Hats off to the blokes who make it looks so easy. After applying the loose sand, or gravel, I've tried both, and dripping on little squidgins of glue/water/drop-of-detergent-to-break-surface-tension, it was just so amusing to watch the gravel, or sand, flow into little puddles all over the place. Even more hilarious was getting it into the points. What's another turnout in the dust bin anyways? Ho, ho, ho! And if letting it dry for three days wasn't enough, having to salvage the rails by use of abrasive rubber and digging out invisible strips of glue from the inside of the rail heads really helped build up my biceps. Such amusement I've never known!

For two years I procrastinated on ballasting Henley, which was good, because I ended up entirely revising the track plan, which would have only cemented, excuse the pun, my poor experience with ballasting. I stumbled over a mention of using Rustoleum Textured Spray Paint in the Forum, and am quite happy with the result. Should one wish, a light black wash would bring out the texture more, but I'm quite pleased with the result and that I can revise and repair track without trouble. The Gauge Master stuff looks interesting, but if the sleepers don't slot in just right, then what happens?

[Malcolm 0-6-0]

I have never found ballasting to be a problem at all.

Tackle the track in sections. First apply the ballast in small amounts at a time using a spoon (a cheap plastic one). As you do that you use a brush to shape the edges and spread it properly into the sleepers. When you tackle the points just make sure that the moving parts are not impeded, again using a brush or if necessary tweezers. Then give the ballast a light misting with water from one of those spray bottles. Then using an eye dropper apply small even drops of the PVA/water/detergent solution. With a tissue gently dab off any water that's on the rails or outside the ballast, and with a spatula push any dislodged bits of ballast back into the track edges.

Run a test train over it (believe it or not wet ballast doesn't doesn't cause any shorting), that will tell you if you have any granules of ballast impeding the movement. Then just let it dry. In cold conditions I find it takes upwards of 48 hours, in warm and hot weather 24 hours is enough. Run a test engine again and clear away any small particles that are in the way of the wheel flanges. I always use my most track sensitive locos for the test because if they run properly then everything else will.

The really important thing is to use the best quality PVA (proper carpenters' grade) because the cheaper brands are all diluted anyway. I never have any problems doing it that way. I think people expect that the ballast will set quickly - it won't so just be patient.

Finally properly ballasted track using real fine ballast looks a million times better than those foam track beds, or any other substitute. And most importantly if you make a mistake it's easy to clean up and redo. I simply can't see what all the fuss is about.

[Montfort]

Thanks. But I hate ballasting.

[Bandit Mick]

Try this before ballasting if you are using a flat surface and not a raised cork bed - stick a strip of masking tape at the correct distance from the ends of the sleepers then ballast as previously described. Just before the ballast is completely dry, peel away the masking tape and Bob's yr mother's brother - a lovely straight edge. Saves a lot of the f@@nying about.

[Malcolm 0-6-0]

Thanks. But I hate ballasting.

Unfortunately the real things were ballasted and as you are seeking to create a model of a real object then I really don't see how you can avoid it. It really is easy, just take your time and learn as you go. That's the way most modellers develop their skills.

[Walkingthedog]

Many don’t ballast, if you don’t want to, don’t do it. It’s your layout and there are no rules. It is supposedto be fun to have a layout not a chore. You layout isn’t the real thing.

[Montfort]

Thank you for all your answers, gentlemen. WTD, you are absolutely right. All my layouts are built only for fun and nothing else. I'm never looking for realism.

[Walkingthedog]

Good, just enjoy it. None of my people move or the animals. They do on the real thing.

[Montfort]

Thanks.