DCC Starter package.

[dougieb1903]

Thanks to both Steve M & Brian for info. Still unable to get any programming accepted so went into problem solving mode. 2 x 30cm lengths of track, 1 programming and 1 main. Blinking communication light not working. CAB was set as 25 and not 1 !! Everything now working, it's so easy. Have a great time over festive period.

[dougieb1903]

I've now made the transition to DCC, with basic locomotive decoders, no sound. I have 2 class 8 N Gauge shunters BR Blue 08 113 & Freightliner Green 08 585. my question is can they be converted from DC to DCC and if so can anyone recommend someone that can do this for me. Cheers Douglas

[Tricky Dicky]

I've now made the transition to DCC, with basic locomotive decoders, no sound. I have 2 class 8 N Gauge shunters BR Blue 08 113 & Freightliner Green 08 585. my question is can they be converted from DC to DCC and if so can anyone recommend someone that can do this for me. Cheers Douglas

The GF 08 shunter can be converted to DCC. I am not familiar with what is inside the model numbers you quoted but if it is the newer DCC ready version it is seems quite straight forward.

https://youtu.be/-06kkBSJTHA?si=D5l36eN_NfR09-3l

I would caution against using a straight blade screw driver for Phillips screws, get an appropriate Phillips it will less likely damage the screw head and also make replacing the screws easier.

If it is an older non-DCC ready version then it is a bit more involved but not impossible.

https://youtu.be/KrycqWavv_A?si=MG7FKRGhpodkGKvG

Finding space for the decoder is the main issue, I believe if you do not mind seeing it then the cab is the likely the easiest. The only thing I would question is the presenters soldering technique. Firstly the Antex 25W iron as standard comes with a fairly broad tip, I would go for a more pointed tip. As for technique use the soldering iron to tin the contacts and the ends of the wires with solder. Then to actually solder the wires to the contacts you do not require further solder that frees your hand using fine nosed pliers to hold the wire in place on the contacts and simply apply heat with the iron until the tinning on the wire and contact melts and runs together to form the joint.

Richard