DC wiring for beginner

[bainhowe]

Complete newbie and worked on first n gauge layout this year. Table top 120 x70cms and no modelling skills so lots of reading/watching videos/trial and error. Simply powered by one controller at left hand side with one set wires connected to the track.
Electrics baffle me - read so much and still confused. Wanting to add another table to the right (same size) and think should add bus wire and couple of droppers. Want to keep it simple and straightforward as only talking about short bus run. Advice please on basics - how to bus wire terminate, size of wires for such small layout, simple connectors…

[Tricky Dicky]

A lot of questions, so let’s start with the layout as it is before we look at extending it. For DC bus wire is not essential but it can help to eliminate poor conductivity but using one needs careful consideration. In DCC one of the functions is to keep all the track live whilst with DC you need some track sections dead. I see you are using insulfrog points these will isolate things like your sidings and the passing loop but I would consider isolating sections with switches rather than relying solely on the points.

As far as wire size you are only controlling one loco at a time so the current draw is not great and 7/0.2 hook up wire is adequate (7 strands of 0.2mm diameter strands).

If you can confirm or explain your present wiring we can take it from there.

Richard

[bainhowe]

Hi there
Just the basic Gaugemaster Combi controller directly wired to the track as marked…think the wire was with it

[Tricky Dicky]

As you have not mentioned it I am assuming you are relying on the insulfrog points to isolate track sections such as your sidings and passing loop and as I recommended before I would use switches. Isolating is simply done by gapping one rail and connecting a switch across it. This means you can have several isolated sections enabling you to store more than one loco in a siding each in their own isolated sections.

If your plan is to control the whole layout plus extension from the one controller than joining on the new rails will simply allow you to do that. If you experience voltage drops with the extension than additional connections will be needed and this is where care is needed to maintain correct polarity. As before 7/0.2mm hookup wire is all you need. If your plan is to use two controllers one for each part then that becomes a little more complicated.

Look up member Brian and in his profile you will find a link to his website where he has extracts from his books with lots of information in easily digested format. The books are also worth buying as handy instant references.

Richard

[Brian]

Thanks Richard. Cheque is in the post
www.brian-lambert.co.uk

[bainhowe]

Thanks so much for that reply. Using insulfrog points at the moment but do like the idea of isolating sections as I get more confident. Will certainly look up the links you mention. Think I’m getting my head round droppers and bus wire and various connections. But I’m still struggling to work out where to place a couple of droppers on the ‘extension’ (maybe where the arrows are?) and where (if at all) I should isolate the two loops (between the 2 sets of points maybe) then I could use two controllers with one being for the inner loop possibly..
My head hurts

[Tricky Dicky]

Isolating the points you indicated is absolutely essential if you plan to use two controllers, this can be achieved with insulated rail joiners (IRJs).

If you are going to use bus wires make sure each isolated section has a dropper going to it, the rails will still need gapping and the isolating switch needs to be in the dropper rather than across the gap.

Each controller will need its own bus wires or someways of isolating sections of the bus so that each controller has unique control of relevant sections.

Richard

PS Brian my cheque has not arrived yet

[Tricky Dicky]

With all this talk of bus wires, as an after thought are you considering at some point in the future going DCC?. If the answer is yes then the bus wires need to be be capable of carrying large currents in the order of 4-5A and my advice is to do it now rather than a retrofit. In fact consider going DCC sooner than later as it is less financially a burden to convert locos one at a time as you acquire them than to be faced with a whole stable of locos needing decoders fitted all at once.

Richard