Bachmann Class 108

[Nine Elms]

Another Newbie question.

How can I get rid of the horrible gap between the DMUs? Any passengers going from one t'other would need to be an Olympic long jumper!!

John

[cadman]

Have a look here, they seem to have a good choice...... https://www.keen-systems.com/Carriage%20Ends.html .......HB

[bulleidboy]

I'm not familiar with the Class 108 DMU, but could you get the carriages closer together by changing the couplings? You could still install the floating end plates.

[Mountain Goat]

Find a way to make a coupling bar? Experiment a bit...

Mind you. I am thinking that I may have the answer if it can be painted black so it can be hidden, or smallerized a bit.

Take a look at what I use to couple my narrow gauge locos as one can make these to couple very close together if one wants, and they still allow for going round sharp curves. (Curves much sharper then first radius).

Don't forget that though I model in 7mm narrow gauge, these waggons are small and run on 00 gauge track. The central buffer parts are made from drawing pins, and the drop loops which are lifted up over the buffer "Spike" are made from paper clips or other suitable stiff wire which are fixed to the rolling stock by little wire loops which are drilled and glued in place. As long as the drop loops are able to clear the rails in the dropped position, and can clear the buffer as they are raized they work fine. I have found that wide drop loops allow for extremely sharp curves, so you do not need the loops to be soo wide.
Also, in the photos I only had made one drop loop on one waggon. I usually make drop loops on both sides, and only one drop loop is raized over the other vehicles buffer spike when in use, so really one only needs a single drop loop to be made.

If one uses this principle for your DMU, it can be extremely close coupled if one wants... Obviously it is up to the builder how close he has made the loop and how far out the buffer part needs to be etc. My waggons shown in the photos could be made to couple closer together if desired.

The buffer parts are needed as they give the vehicles something to rest against while reversing. On vehicles that can create their own buffer using the frame of the waggon or vehicle, I need only a spike that a drop loop can be raized over for them to couple, but most items of stock or locos I have need the buffers to hold them clear so the bodies don't touch each other while going round sharp bends. I turn my locos round 180 degrees on a 2ft wide board and I am not limited so much by the couplings as it is some of my rolling stock and locos that are at their limit of what they will turn.

If one uses this same principle but modified to fit the space you have on your model (And adjusted it so it is close coupled), it may provide an answer to what you've been looking for.

[Mountain Goat]

Also another possible solution is to use modified Sprat and Winkle couplings. They would have to be modified because their counter balance weights will not fit bogie coaches etc without modification, but they do allow for relitively close coupling to be used.

I have those DMU's myself though I am embarissed to say I have hardly taken them out of the box other then to convert them to DCC and I recall that they have those continental style couplings used inbetween vehicles.

[Conmaira]

Another Newbie question.

How can I get rid of the horrible gap between the DMUs? Any passengers going from one t'other would need to be an Olympic long jumper!!

John

There's a seller on ebay who does gangways fpr specific coaches though I'm not sure if the 108 is one he does.

It continuely surprises me the number of layouts featured in the model railway press and elsewhere that have the huge gap between coaches, when there really is no need for it. I assume it's a hangover from trainsets and very small radius curves? Given the rather excessive prices for new coaches you would think manufacturers would resolve the problem themselves?